Hello,
I hope I can say something to help. Since taking on a completely derelict (and I mean derelict!) allotment four years ago - I was forced to confront the idea of gardening effectively and growing fruit and veg with minimum labour power and physical challenges. In our family these included my other half being diagnosed with a chronic condition shortly after Babes was born, so when I say ‘I’ converted an allotment from derelict, I really do mean that I was on my own as far as the work was concerned - as Other half very quickly gets chronic fatigue and can’t do the physical work. I’m mentioning all this, because I want you to know that it is possible. BUT - it requires a different approach than that of other ‘old-school’ allotment holders. There are lots of people with physical or family challenges. This is a short answer to your query, the longer ‘answer’ is on my gardening blog, I keep coming back to these issues and if you look at the archive, you’ll see some but not all of the photos of techniques I’m talking about. There’s much more to say about this than is possible in a short post, so here’s the link to that…
See: http://www.questionersgardentime.blogspot.com
In a nutshell I’d advise the following:
1. Do NOT, repeat NOT even think about rotavating for reasons you’ve already mentioned and because it often creates a hard pan and makes the worms very unhappy.
2. YES, YES, YES cover half the plot with cloth material (black plastic - old carpet no longer advisable organically speaking but if needs must, you might have to).
If black plastic (preferably porous) doesn’t look so nice then you can put wood chip on top if you have it (ask allotment holders or local tree surgeon) otherwise if you have access to large cardboard boxes you can put wood chip on top.
To stop the bindweed/couch grass creeping across from the clean area to the ‘dirty’ weed-ridden bit, dig long but small trenches about half a foot deep and wide.
For other ideas on mulches check the blog and google around ‘no-dig’ for more.
3. Once you have done step 2. then leave the area in question over spring/summer and don’t tackle it again until the autumn. This will take the pressure off you.
Try and enjoy the bits you are cultivating and do them as well as you can. If you find yourself with more time on your hands then fine, you can start to peel back the mulch (BIT BY BIT NOT ALL AT ONCE - AND THOROUGHLY) and take the perennial weeds out, but you’ll find it is less work in early to late autumn.
4. In the time between now and autumn try and learn more about no-dig techniques so that once the plot is clear of perennial weeds you can convert to a no-dig system and use mulches as far as possible to keep weeds down. If you manage to attend a course on permaculture or no-dig then that’s brilliant, but there are so many books about it, look for Charles Dowding..
5. Your confidence (like your allotmenteering skills will GROW) - in the long run, you will have much less work to do than your fellow allotmenteers, some of whom still insist on double digging each year, when there really is no need. As far as sexism is concerned, there is that too, but with time you’ll gain more respect. Women allotmenteers are getting more common all the time.
6. Try to differentiate in the advice that you are given - some of it is genuinely useful and some not sensible at all. You are an ORGANIC gardener. Be PROUD. It is an exciting journey. Think about joining Garden Organic (google the name) if you can’t afford it right now, you can glean lots from the website. Go your OWN way and you’ll find others will follow. WORK SMART (NOT HARD)
best and good gardening.
w.w.
P.S. Oh, and be careful about listening to advice about how to get rid of weeds. Some people haven’t been through the experience of a totally weed-ridden plot, and I really feel if you’ve never done it, (successfully) you don’t know!